Runway: Undercover F/W 19
The F/W 19 Paris Fashion Week runway show for Jun Takahashi’s UNDERCOVER could only be described in one way, a true “horror show”. Calling deep inspiration from Stanley Kubrick’s 1971 adaptation of Burgess’ “A Clockwork Orange,” the show was adorned with a near perfect marriage of contemporary fabrications and renaissance inspired silhouettes featuring in your face all over photo prints of some of the most iconic scenes from the movie.
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Some of the more “droogish” pieces from the show included chunky cable-knit fingerless gauntlets, a Valentino tailored corduroy work suit, and footwear collaborations showcasing a rare Doc Martens silhouette, a new Airmax 720, as well as a Nike React Element sneaker-boot that looks to be outfitted with surplus hospital equipment. Vocabulary from the Burgess created Nadsat language emblazoned oversized knit sweaters and a collection of reverse shearling gloves.
Extending the collaboration between Takahashi and Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli was a win-win for the longtime friends. Creating crossover pieces featuring a “VU” collaborative logo and dreamy “Space Oddity” graphics superimposed over images of Beethoven allowed the two designers to explore the intersection in a modern street and tailored fashion. Opening the door for a more luxe product while allowing the wearer to float between two genres of fashion throughout daily life is the injection of adrenaline we need to see right now.