For Undercover's FW17 collection, Jun Takahashi stepped it up and brought back the innovative obscurity that his previous collections were missing. Beyond that fact that Undercover pieces pre-2010 are a rare cop, Takahashi's later designs resembled lazy and rehashed motifs exploiting the brand's extensive history. Previous collections such as "Ambivalence," "Scab," and "Paper Doll," sought exploration into parts unknown, bringing about some of the most avant-garde to ever hit the streetwear scene. Undercover's SS16 collection decided to revive these designs and capitalize on the unfortunate sense of nostalgia that 2016 was known for. Now, with a rejuvenated interest in the brand's antiquity and the conclusion of a really shitty year, Jun has captured the increasing momentum of his fanbase to bring back the Undercover we know and love.

17 years later, "Generation Fuck You" has become just one piece of Takahashi's immense archive and the "Brain Washed Generation" has taken over. Undercover's FW17 collection expels futuristic vibes that make you feel like you're in some sort of overwhelming Black Mirror/Mr. Robert crossover. Takahashi has outdone himself as "Brain Washed Generation" draws from key influencers in the fashion scene such as dystopian streetwear from Cav Empt, astronaut-like jackets from Helmut Lang's AW99-00, "Séance de Travail," and oversized garments from Vetements, while still retaining the "fuck you" attitude that sustains the brand's appeal. Key pieces in the collection include cozy tailored jackets, technical outerwear, oversized tees with gimmicky graphics, quilted bondage trousers, and of course, and a pair of wings because why the fuck not?

"Brain Washed Generation" is the first collection in recent years that seems to have resonated with veteran Undercover fans. Not only that, but Jun Takahashi has captured the recent uncertainty and anxiety in the air and channeled it into a true banger. Similarly to Raf Simons, Takahashi strives to commentate on recent world events through his art, a feat that bears strong resemblance to the rebellious attitude of early Undercover.

Photos Via Vogue