The Basquiat Effect: How a New York Artist Influenced Fashion Culture
Jean-Michel Basquiat wearing a painted helmet, 1981
From posthumous streetwear collabs to runway appearances in Paris, it’s safe to say that Jean-Michel Basquiat played a large role in the fashion scene since his rise to fame in the 1980s. While art was his main priority, his distinct sense of fashion and his untouchable individuality has given inspiration to many in the fashion scene, including the likes of Virgil Abloh, Supreme, Dr. Martens, and many others.
Basquiat first came to fame under the moniker ‘SAMO’ in the late 1970s, where he and fellow classmate Al Diaz started using graffiti as a form of social commentary. Instead of painting pictures, the duo used their art to ask important questions. The two’s artwork could be seen scattered all across lower Manhattan, giving rise to a movement many publicists viewed as sinister and hazardous. Their work tackled tough issues omnipresent in the scenes of 1980s New York; issues like civil rights, the effects of capitalism, and urban life in America. After SAMO ended, Jean used the moniker as a vehicle to launch his own art career and soon started to gain publicity for his raw, unfiltered art. During the early years of his art career, Basquiat was introduced to Andy Warhol, a key figure in the art world. He and Andy grew to be close friends, and would later work together on many occasions. What started off as graffiti on the subways and streets of New York, Basquiat’s work evolved into something greater than painstrokes, and soon, Basquiat would be thrust into the spotlight and into circles inside and outside of art.
Early depictions of Basquiat’s work can be seen above. Paintings like Skull, 1981 (fourth slide) depict life, death, and confusion for Basquiat.
By the late 1980s, Basquiat’s career was bigger than ever before. He was starting to become a household name amongst the Art/Fashion circles of New York City, so much so that in 1986 he was asked by Rei Kawakubo to walk the runway of her Comme Des Garcon Homme Plus S/S ’87 show in Paris. In many ways, the show reflected Basquiat’s personal style through the use of street-oriented dress wear such as pinstripe tuxedos, derby dress shoes, and boxy-fit blazers.
Jean-Michel Basquiat for CDG Homme Plus S/S ‘87
Even after his death in 1988, Basquiat’s influence still lives on through his estate. Collaborations with brands like Supreme and Dr. Martens celebrate his art through prints of his paintings on items such as shirts and shoes. Even brands like Comme Des Garcons have recognized his influence through numerous collaborations throughout the years. Most recently, Tiffany & Co., under the creative directorship of LVMH’s Alexandre Arnault, has announced a Basquiat-inspired collection featuring Jay-Z & Beyonce - a reflection on Basquiat’s continued relevance.
Through life and death, Basquiat will always be remembered for his artwork. His distinct and unusual style has and always will echo through the fashion scene, and we can’t wait to see how designers in the future use his work to create new, unique interpretations.