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Skincare 101

Tony Abbate

An area of functional health that is often overlooked is skincare. This may be because many do not see the benefit, maybe it is the “paradox of choice” with the thousands upon thousands of products on the market that can leave a consumer lost and confused, or maybe because it is a complex world over-saturated with marketing tropes and false hopes. Regardless of your feeling on skincare, it is a vital aspect of one’s day-to-day routine that can have lasting beneficial results. Skin is something that can cause stress and anxiety for many as it can be a point of pain and strife, but it can be managed.

Regardless of where you are in your skincare journey, it is important to understand that everyone has different skin chemistry and not all products are going to work the same from person to person. Because of this, I recommend you take small steps with your skincare routine and try to only introduce one new product at a time. This way you will be able to determine with certainty if a product works for you and can safely add a new product or remove/replace one from your routine.

Below I have listed and further explained which products (and their compounds) that have been found to be effective, affordable, and attainable.

Cleansers

The point of a cleanser is simple and straightforward: To remove dirt, oil, and grime from the face without stripping the skin of its natural barrier. A harsh cleanser will not only strip the undesirables from the skin, but will also strip the skin of its natural oils, leaving the skin feeling tight and dry. When it comes to cleansing, I recommend cleansing one time a day. It is usually unnecessary to do more than once especially if you suffer from oily, dehydrated, or dry skin types.

Serums & Toners

Serums and toners come in many forms and are essential for keeping your skin looking healthy and promoting cell turnover. Serums and toners can be used in combination so do not feel you only have to choose one type. Below I will list common serum active ingredients and their functions:

Hylauronic Acid: Humectant, pulls moisture into the skin to plump up wrinkles and soften skin, can hold 1000x its weight in water

Vitamin C: Ascorbic Acid, anti-aging properties by neutralizing free radicals caused by pollution, UV damage, and other sources.

DMAE (Dimethylethanolamine): Reduces the appearance of fine lines and firms skin

Niacinamide: Regulates cell-turnover, reduces appearance of fine lines, and fades hyper-pigmentation

Exfoliates

Chemical exfoliation is the preferred method and unlike the name suggests, it is the gentlest form of exfoliation (compared to physical) and you can do it daily. Lactic Acid (AHA) has been found to be the gentlest, so if you find that you suffer from Eczema/Rosacea, start with an AHA. If you find that you suffer from acne-prone skin or have lots of clogs, then you will want to start with Beta-Hydroxy Acid (BHA).

AHA Exfoliates:

BHA Exfoliates (Alcohol-Free):

Moisturizers

Everyone needs to have a moisturizer in their arsenal. Even if you are like me and suffer from oily skin, a lot of the time oil production is commonly due to dehydration. Moisturizers are important in holding up your skins natural barrier throughout the day.

Sunscreens/SPFs

SPFs are an often overlooked step in skincare but an extremely important one. UV Rays from the sun are very harmful to the skin and can cause lasting damage. Always make sure you apply it daily before you leave your home and make sure it is at least SPF 30 or above with high UVA protection.

Morning & Evening Routine Outline

Morning

  • Rinse with warm water

  • Serum/Toner

  • Moisturizer

  • SPF

Night

  • Cleanser

  • Exfoliate

  • Serum/Toner

  • Moisturizer

All photos courtesy of Stratia Skincare