Inspired by Hodinkee's “Talking Watches” series on Youtube, we decided to take a closer look at some of the people within our community and their watch collections. One of the first people that came to mind was creative consultant & designer, Jakob Hetzer. Hetzer has dialed in his aesthetic over the years and his assortment of vintage timepieces speak true to his taste level. In his article, we will break down his collection through images he has shared through his Instagram.

JAEGER LECOULTRE 1931 “REVERSO”-REF. 2788570

Jaeger Lecoultre’s “Reverso” watch was originally designed in 1931 following a complaint from a British officer in India-that his watch face always ended up smashed from his polo matches- challenging Cesar de Trey- an astute businessman and friend of Jaque-David Lecoultre to create a timepiece that could withstand polo matches. JLC thus created the Reverso which features a reversible dial with the reverse side being stainless steel. Hetzer has the 1931 edition that features a black tuxedo dial without the JLC branding and just simply the words “Reverso.” The watch features art deco inspired design details finished elegantly with a crocodile leather strap. While Hetzer has some heavy hitters within his collection, the Reverso is definitely one of the crown jewels in my opinion.

ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST- 1966 REF. 1601

What is a watch collection without a few Rolex’s? The Swiss watchmaker is one of the most popular labels in the world of horology. The Oyster Perpetual Datejust was originally unveiled in 1945 at the Hotel Des Bergues in Geneva. It was released to celebrate Rolex’s 40th anniversary. This Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Ref. 1601 features the classic oyster bracelet, roman numeral dial, and a 36 mm case. Hetzer eventually customized this watch with an engraved case-back with the words “Sense of Urgency” as well as his signature, a very personal touch to a timeless classic. This is an ideal vintage Rolex for any collection.

LONGINES GMT- REF. L2.605.4

With a rich history in timekeeping- Longines watches became very popular in the mid-1900s. Longine maintains records of every watch that they have sold. Their records can be found in the Longines Museum in Saint-Imier. So out there somewhere is the original record of the buyer who purchased this vintage timepiece that Jakob now owns. This GMT in Hetzer’s collection features a unique dial with beautiful numerals which give it a unique and vintage feel.

PATEK PHILIPPE NAUTILUS- REF. 5711

A watch that needs no introduction- The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711. First launched in 1976, designed by Gerald Genta, the Nautilus is the second generation of its brother- a watch also designed by Genta, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The 5711 is the most original design that mirrors its original 1976 design. It is definitely one of the most sought after watches in the world of horology with extensive waitlists and resale values of $60,000+. This watch is definitely one of Hetzers strongest in his arsenal.

JAEGER LECOULTRE COSMOGRAPH 1938-REF. KAL 463

This WW2 era JLC watch became very popular in Europe during the Great War. The watch bodes a stark black dial with very easy to read numerals. Sticking true to its heritage, Hetzer has paired this JLC with an olive green military strap.

ROLEX CELLINI REF. 50519

A non-traditional offering from Rolex, the Cellini was introduced as Rolex’s premier “dress watch” line. According to Rolex, the collection was developed to honor goldsmith and sculptor, Benvenuto Cellini. Featuring many variations and reference numbers, the one in Hetzer’s collection is one of the newer models which features a 39 mm case made of white gold with a lunar face in the dial. A true gentleman’s watch that will be versatile in any situation.

LONGINES ADMIRAL AUTOMATIC- 1968

Another vintage Longines timepiece in Hetzer’s collection is the Admiral Automatic, which was first introduced in the late 1950’s. Today it revered as one of the most popular vintage timepieces from Longines. Its simplicity and timeless design is a great addition to any collection.

PATEK PHILIPPE AQUANAUT REF. 5167

Patek Philippe introduced the Aquanaut in 1997 to offer a cheaper alternative to the famed Nautilus. The watch features a 3 part case with screw down crown paired with a rubber strap- which gives the watch a sporty character that allows for deep water exploration. This was the first watch from Patek to feature a rubber strap. An ideal everyday watch with a casual/dressy appeal.

OMEGA SEAMASTER CALENDAR AUTOMATIC- REF. 1010

First introduced in 1948, the Seamaster is the longest-running product line for Omega. It was loosely based upon the designs of the British Royal Navy towards the end of WW2. This Omega 70’s era Seamaster is one of the coolest Omega watches I have ever seen. Its octagonal case shape seemingly pays homage to the Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, which was first introduced in 1972- close to the time this Omega watch was created. It really shows the design ethos of that era. Paired with a super clean dial and leather strap, this Omega is sophisticated & classic.