Shoulder-pads. Animal-print skirts. “Evening diapers.” Three years into his role as Saint Laurent’s creative director, Anthony Vaccarello continues to subtly refashion the house in his likeness, no small feat considering the blockbuster years of Hedi Slimane’s tenure. While the latter’s shadow still looms large over the brand, Vacarello’s focus remains unwavering as Saint Laurent’s evolution continues its crystallization. With each season, the designer advances his creative platform with offerings which add to the brand’s narrative while divulging his own.

While the past shows have utilized the Eiffel Tower as a backdrop for his fashion fantasies, this time Vaccarello opted for an indoor show - complete with a two-way mirrored corridor and innumerable flashing bulbs which illuminated his runway. 80’s nostalgia ran rife, as models sauntered down the catwalk clad in broad-shouldered jackets (think 80’s men’s power suit meets glam-chic outerwear), pencil skirts and Vacarello’s trademark sheer stockings. While the collection was primarily a showcase of Saint Laurent’s latest womenswear, 13 of the 100+ looks were a glimpse of menswear, which was mostly ruled by sharp tailoring, skinny ties and an overall aesthetic fit for any fan of black rock n roll attire. Unleashing a neon sensation for his finale, Vacarello’s exploration of the ’80s was blown into full effect as his runway went rave-y in what is sure to be the talking point of his latest display. UV lighting, day glow feathers, and fluorescent heels added color to the somewhat muted palette and lent a futuristic glow to a show otherwise rooted in the past. What followed was the audacious unbosoming (literally) of destiny which Kering, Saint Laurent’s parent corporation, is on track to clear €2 billion by 2022 - a future even brighter than Vacarello’s latest spectacle.