It's no surprise that one of the most highly anticipated and hyped brands at London Fashion week was Samuel Ross's A COLD WALL*. A Hypebeast interview last March revealed Ross's connection with the notorious Virgil Abloh as his creative assistant may have played a major role in his recent rise to the limelight. After branching out to create his own brand based on the dredges of the UK class system and a deteriorating society as a whole, Samuel's concept was immediately embraced favorably by fashion connoisseurs of all spectrums. A COLD WALL* has done exceptionally well in the market and is still gaining popularity from the release of his first collection up to now. Not only has it turned heads on fashion forums but the designer has caught the attention of buyers at established retailers such as Barney's as well as high-end boutiques like KM20. 

As the lights dimmed and the electronica music started up fans prepared to see what the UK designer has been cooking up. His last collection POLYTHENE* paid homage to his streetwear or "urban luxury" roots, this season he appears to refocus on the avant-garde aspect of the brand. As the first model walks out weaving his way through metal beams on the catwalk wearing a brown PVC looking raincoat, what appears to be bleached grey rainboots, nylon waterproof pants, as well as the distinguishable front tactical pack, the audience is left with utilitarian vibes. As the show continues many of the garments appear to be made with everyday use in mind and all appear to be weatherproof. In my opinion, this collection definitely crosses the boundaries of utility and high fashion while staying true to the brand's theme. Personally, I see glimpses of Acronym inspiration, however, I say this half-heartedly being that both brands have different backgrounds and are intended for different types of audiences yet are similar in the way they look. Dystopian and futuristic yet modern, each piece appears to be very carefully crafted and created with intention, not to mention incredibly hard to reduplicate in the case of mass production. Samuel Ross really has an interesting thing going for him and is definitely making waves in his own way, I can confidently say I'm a fan of his work and can't wait to see what comes next for this young designer.