Runway: YSL S/S 20
SS20 is in full swing. As NYFW hit its final note and London Fashion Week approaches, the fashion carousel is taking us for another ride. While Prada displayed its latest palettes and silhouettes in Shanghai, Saint Laurent looked to Malibu to host its SS20 presentation.
Anthony Vaccarello revealed his latest vision of Saint Laurent on the sandy coast of Malibu’s Paradise Cove. With the beach as his runway, Vaccarello sent his models strutting in sheer, wavy clothes, one-shoulder tops and sparkling outerwear numbers which revealed the designer’s inspiration: a Moroccan getaway. The sandy cove made for a pleasant backdrop for Vaccarello’s recreation of a Marrakeshian paradise. The show was littered with a spectrum of Hollywood luminaries, perhaps most notably Keanu Reeves, the new face of the brands’ men’s range.
This show struck a slightly different chord from those prior - a diversion from the skinny staples which have come to characterize contemporary Saint Laurent. While the SS20 collection was meant to “[exude] the free spirit inspired by the irreverent allure of Mick Jagger and the Parisian nonchalance of Serge Gainsbourg”, two figures whose inspiration can be recalled in the work of Hedi Slimane, Vaccarello’s rendition of bohemian and British rocker-chic has a different allure. From the harem pants and glam rock sequins to the low-cut shirts and overall monochromatic mood, the show was an exhibition of Vaccarello’s version of androgyny. Vaccarello’s collection also channeled vibes from the Rolling Stones’ 1975 concert, with colors and details which drew from the troupe’s legendary show attire. At its core, Saint Laurent’s resort collection was a bohemian dreamland, an indication of Vaccarello’s concept of the new Saint Laurent man.